Celine's Autumn/Winter 2018 collection, unveiled as a ready-to-wear presentation, marked a pivotal moment in the house's history and significantly impacted the broader fashion landscape. It wasn't just a collection; it was a statement, a declaration of a new aesthetic direction under the creative direction of Hedi Slimane, a shift away from Phoebe Philo's established minimalist elegance towards a more sharply defined, rock-infused vision. This article will delve into the nuances of Celine AW18, exploring its runway looks, the striking beauty choices, the models who embodied Slimane's vision, and the critical reception that followed its debut.
The transition from Philo's era to Slimane's was highly anticipated, and arguably, fraught with expectations. Philo had cultivated a cult following with her effortless, intellectual chic, and her departure left a significant void. Slimane, known for his work at Dior Homme and Yves Saint Laurent, brought a different approach altogether, one characterized by a lean, androgynous silhouette, a love for sharp tailoring, and a distinct rock 'n' roll sensibility. The Celine Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear collection, therefore, became a battleground for opinions, a testament to the power of stylistic shifts within a luxury house.
Runway Looks: A Symphony of Black and Slim Silhouettes
The Celine AW18 runway was a study in contrasts, a blend of dark sophistication and rebellious energy. The collection was dominated by a palette of black, punctuated by splashes of burgundy, cream, and occasional pops of bright color. The signature silhouette was undeniably slim, emphasizing a lean, almost boyish figure. This was achieved through tailored trousers, often high-waisted and impeccably cut, paired with fitted jackets, slim-fitting sweaters, and sleek blouses. The emphasis on tailoring was undeniable; the jackets, whether blazers or leather biker jackets, were precisely constructed, speaking volumes about the meticulous craftsmanship inherent to the Celine brand, even as it embraced a new aesthetic.
Mini skirts and dresses were also featured, often paired with knee-high boots or loafers, adding a touch of youthful rebellion to the otherwise sophisticated aesthetic. The collection included a variety of outerwear, ranging from trench coats and oversized coats to sleek leather jackets, each contributing to the overall sense of effortless cool. While the collection leaned heavily towards black, the use of texture – through leather, suede, and various wool fabrics – added depth and visual interest. The layering of garments was also crucial, creating a sense of relaxed sophistication, far removed from the structured, almost severe lines of some of Slimane's previous work.
The accessories played a crucial role in completing the looks. Slender belts cinched the waist, emphasizing the slim silhouette. Bags, often small and structured, added a touch of understated elegance. The footwear, ranging from pointed-toe boots to loafers and delicate heels, were consistently elegant, reflecting the overall refined attitude of the collection. The overall effect was one of carefully considered minimalism, a deliberate and refined approach to dressing, even when embracing a more rebellious aesthetic. This was not simply about skinny jeans and biker jackets; it was about a precise construction of a new Celine woman, one who was both powerful and understated.
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